Kamis, 10 Desember 2009

10 Fakta Menyedihkan Tentang Kota Jakarta


Berawal dari keterpaksaan, saya tinggal di kota ini. Lama-lama rasa terpaksa menjadi biasa dan semakin lama saya menjadi semakin mencintai kota ini. Berawal dari kecintaan inilah saya menulis tentang beberapa hal menyedihkan tentang kota ini.

Dalam edisi Kompas cetak beberapa hari lalu ada ulasan mengenai film ‘Slumdog Millionaire’ yang menceritakan sisi-sisi gelap kehidupan kota Mumbai, kota terbesar di India, yang menurut sang produser adalah kota yang gagal. Saya tergelitik oleh pernyataan si penulis bahwa kemungkinan Jakarta juga sedang mengambil jalan menuju kegagalan. Mungkin pernyataan itu ada benarnya.


Berawal dari keterpaksaan, saya tinggal di kota ini. Lama-lama rasa terpaksa menjadi biasa dan semakin lama saya menjadi semakin mencintai kota ini. Berawal dari kecintaan inilah saya menulis tentang beberapa hal menyedihkan tentang kota ini.

Dalam edisi Kompas cetak beberapa hari lalu ada ulasan mengenai film ‘Slumdog Millionaire’ yang menceritakan sisi-sisi gelap kehidupan kota Mumbai, kota terbesar di India, yang menurut sang produser adalah kota yang gagal. Saya tergelitik oleh pernyataan si penulis bahwa kemungkinan Jakarta juga sedang mengambil jalan menuju kegagalan. Mungkin pernyataan itu ada benarnya.

Hanya sedikit warga Jakarta yang peduli pada sejarah kotanya sendiri

Adolf Heuken pernah diprotes, kenapa beliau hanya menulis bukunya yang terkenal “Historical Sites of Jakarta” dalam bahasa Inggris. Menurut beliau itu karena warga Jakarta sepertinyat tidak tertarik akan sejarah kotanya sendiri.Buku itu memang akhirnya diterbitkan juga dalam bahasa Indonesia atas permintaan banyak pihak, namun pernyataan Heuken perlu direnungkan.

Kalau melihat banyaknya bangunan tua bersejarah di kawasan kota lama Batavia yang dibiarkan dalam kondisi terlantar, kawasan bersejarah seperti segitiga Senen yang beralih fungsi menjadi kawasan komersial modern atau hilangnya Hotel Des Indes untuk dijadikan kawasan pertokoan Duta Merlin yang tanpa karakter, atau digusurnya gedung Societet de Harmonie, semakin hilangnya karakter pecinan di kasawan Kota dan masih banyak lagi, mungkin memang benar bahwa warga Jakarta kurang peduli pada sejarah kotanya.

Sesuatu hal yang menyedihkan karena dengan hilangnya monumen sejarah itu hilang pula kolektif memori warga Jakarta.

Jakarta sedang menuju bunuh diri ekologis

Tidak bisa disangkal kawasan hijau di Jakarta semakin berkurang. Bahkan daerah resapan air dan paru-paru kota juga sudah banyak berubah menjadi kawasan komersial. Check this : Hutan Simpang Tomang yang dulunya adalah sabuk hijau kota sekarang sudah menjadi Mal Taman Anggrek. Daerah persawahan dan rawa di Kelapa Gading sekarang sudah menjadi kawasan hiburan, perumahan dan komersial. Wilayah Sunter yang dulunya adalah daerah resapan air sudah menjadi kawasan permukiman dan pabrik. Kawasan hutan bakau Pantai Kapuk sekarang sudah menjadi daerah perumahan elit. Hutan Kota Senayan yang dulunya khusus diperuntukkan bagi paru-paru kota sekarang padat dengan berbagai mal dan bangunan perkantoran. Tidak heran peta genangan banjir semakin tahun semakin luas.

Jangan salahkan anak-anak yang bermain bola di jalanan, lah, lapangannya mana?

Kasian sekali anak-anak yang besar di Jakarta, tidak ada tempat bermain, jangankan lapangan bola, taman kecil tempat bermain ayunan atau bermain kelereng pun sudah tidak ada lagi. Ruang terbuka public di Jakarta sudah semakin berkurang dan sepertinya tidak pernah mendapat perhatian. Mungkin pemerintah Jakara berpikir untuk apa ada ruang terbuka public toh warganya juga sudah tidak punya waktu lagi untuk berinteraksi satu sama lain.

Mau becak, bemo, bajaj atau busway, semuanya sami mawon, tidak aman dan tidak nyaman.

Bus umum terutama metromini memang sudah terkenal banyak copet dan kalau lagi apes bisa juga bertemu garong atau dipalak preman. Tapi siapa nyana naik becak pun bisa dirampok. Busway yang rencananya akan jadi pahlawan angkutan umum Jakarta pun ternyata tidak nyaman. Tengok saja antrian busway yang panjangnya bisa sama dengan antrian Bantuan Langsung Tunai alias BLT. AC dan TV di halte busway yang awalnya dingin dan menyala terus pun sekarang sudah mati semua. Copet juga tidak ketinggalan ikut meramaikan busway. Kalau di dalam bis biasa atau metromini copet cukup berpakaian casual, bahkan aksesoris kebanggaan mereka seperti rantai dan anak kunci masih melekat d ibadan, maka kalau di dalam busway, para copet berpakaian sangat rapi layaknya karyawan, bahkan dandanan mereka bisa lebih rapi dan lebih harum daripada penumpang yang notabene adalah karyawan kantoran betulan.

Antara penjalan kaki dan warung kaki lima, eh ya yang digusur koq ya pejalan kaki...

Repotnya jadi pejalan kaki di Jakarta, sudah jalannya hanya seukuran pinggul orang dewasa, mesti bersaing pula dengan pedagang kaki lima dan parkiran liar. Pemerintah kota Jakarta sepertinya tidak pernah memperhatikan pejalan kaki, jangan harap ada trotoar lebar di seluruh kota Jakarta. Trotoar yang lebar hanya ada di secuil ruas jalan Thamrin Sudirman. Kalau ada trotoar nganggur sedikit saja, pasti langsung diisi oleh pedagang kaki lima atau parkiran sepeda motor liar atau bahkan trotoar dipakai pula untuk perlintasan kendaraan roda dua saat jalanan macet.

Kalau masuk kantor jam 8 pagi, dari rumah jam 6 pagi. Kalau masuk kantor jam 7 pagi, sebaiknya nginap saja di kantor.

Kemacetan lalu lintas adalah makanan sehari-hari warga Jakarta atau mereka yang bekerja di Jakarta. Beruntung mereka yang masih punya secuil lahan untuk ditinggali di kota Jakarta. Karena kawasan permukinan sudah semakin bergeser ke arah pinggiran, semakin banyak kaum komuter yang masuk ke kota Jakarta setiap hari. Saking padatnya kendaraan di pagi dan sore hari, semakin lama pula waktu yang terbuang di perjalanan. Orangtua harus berangkat pagi hari sebelum anak-anak bangun dan baru bisa tiba kembali di rumah setelah anak-anak tidur. Cara untuk mengatasi kemacetan? Tidak ada. Satu-satunya pilihan hanya bagaimana menikmatinya saja.

Katanya Molenvliet dulunya adalah Queen of the East, katanya......

Kota Paris yang indah punya sungai yang membelahnya menjadi dua. Kota Jakarta juga punya Molenvliet. Sungai ini membelah kota Jakarta dari Utara ke Selatan. Sekarang, area Molenvlieat adalah daerah seputar Jl. Gajah Mada dan Hayam Wuruk. Dahulu daerah ini adalah permukiman elit warga negara Belanda dan warga keturunan Tionghoa. Kawasan ini sangat indah karena banyaknya rumah mewah gaya kolonial dengan taman-taman yang luas. Kawasan in pulalah yang menyebabkan kota Batavia di abad 17 diberi julukan Queen of the East.

Apa yang tersisa saat ini sungguh sangat menyedihkan. Salah satu rumah mewah Belanda yang masih tersisa di kawasan ini dan masih terawat baik adalah Gedung Arsip Nasional yang dulunya adalah rumah Reiniers Klerk van Middelburg, mantan Gubernur Jendral Belanda. Citra kawasan ini sebagai kawasan indah ala Eropa saat ini sudah tidak terlihat lagi. Bangunan kolonial sudah diganti dengan deretan ruko, pub, panti pijat, dan hotel hotel kelas murah.

Asap benar-benar membuat mabuk!

Hidup di Jakarta mau tidak mau harus bersahabat dengan asap. Mulai dari asap rokok hingga asap kendaraan bermotor. Berdasarkan penelitian yang pernah saya baca entah dimana, paparan CO2 yang terlalu tinggi pada tubuh manusia bisa menyebabkan IQ alias kecerdasan bisa menurun hingga beberapa point. Sayang belum pernah ada penelitian yang membuktikan bahwa IQ anak-anak Jakarta dan sekitarnya lebih rendah daripada IQ anak-anak di daerah luar Jakarta. Tapi siapa pula peduli pada otak yang cerdas, karena di Jakarta apa saja bisa jadi duit. Tapi terlepas dari soal IQ, asap benar-benar menurunkan kualitas kesehatan di kota Jakarta.

Seperti apa sih budaya asli warga Jakarta?
Selama beberapa tahun tinggal di kota ini, budaya asli warga Jakarta yang pernah saya lihat hanya ondel-ondel yang muncul setiap tujuh belasan dan setiap kali ada acara Jakarta Fair. Katanya musik asli orang Betawi yang warga asli Jakarta adalah Gambang Kromong, seperti apa bunyinya, mana saya tahu. Katanya setiap kali Lebaran, ada dodol khas bikinan orang Betawi, seperti apa rasanya, mana saya tahu. Sampai sekarangpun saya masih penasaran seperti apa budaya asli Jakarta. Semoga saja suatu saat saya bisa melihat produk asli warga Jakarta sebelum keburu dicekal seperti tari Jaipong.

Kolong jembatan, pinggir rel kereta, atau di mana saja deh, kalau mau bisa saja dibuat rumah.

Permukiman kumuh ada di mana-mana, dari yang legal sampai yang illegal. Masalah kependudukan mungkin memang sudah terlalu ruwet untuk diatasi.
Dalam kumpulan foto tentang daerah kumuh karya Jonas Bendiksen, seorang fotografer muda asal Norwegia terdapat sebuah foto yang menggambarkan kehidupan seorang ibu bernama Asanah yang tinggal bersama suami dan tiga anak remaja di ruangan berukuran dua kali dua meter dengan tinggi 1 meter di bawah kolong jembatan di atas kanal pembuangan sampah kota Jakarta. Tidak ada satupun perabot rumah tangga di dalam rumah kecil itu. Sungguh menyesakkan menyaksikan kehidupan kaum miskin dan sangat miskin di kota ini. Mau digusur atau diremajakan? Tidak ada pilihan yang mudah.

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Kamis, 03 Desember 2009

Kerak Telor, Batavian Traditional Omelet


Every region in Indonesiahas its own traditional food. Kerak Telor is a famous delicacy of Jakarta city, formerly known as Batavia. The native of Jakartaknown as the Betawi has made this food since hundreds of years ago.

Image by author

Read full article in : http://www.trifter.com/Practical-Travel/World-Cuisine/Kerak-Telor-Traditional-Batavian-Omelet.594277


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Rabu, 26 November 2008

The Story of Peter Ervervelt - Mistery (still) Unsolved


In the end of 1721 when Governor Zwaardercroon ruled Batavia, a group of suspected rebels that was indicted of planning an insurrection against the Dutch government was captured, tortured and sentenced to death. The group leader, Pieter Erbervelt was brutally tortured and cruelly executed.

In the end of 1721 when Governor Zwaardercroon ruled Batavia, a group of suspected rebels that was indicted of planning an insurrection against the Dutch government was captured, tortured and sentenced to death. The group leader, Pieter Erbervelt was brutally tortured and cruelly executed.

Notwithstanding the execution of Pieter Erbervelt and his group, the mystery surrounding the truth of the facts of the case remains. Many historians are still casting doubt of whether it is true that Erverbelt was planning a rebellion, and if not, why is it happen, what is the reason behind his execution? Is it a reflection of the injustice law and society system at the time?


The Chronology

In ‘De Nederlandsch Oostindische Compagnie in de Achtiende eeuw” written by Prof. Dr. E.C. Godee Molsbergen, it was told that the first person who throw the idea of a rebellion was Reykert Heere, a Ducth commissioner for inlander (native Indonesian) business.

In August 1721 there was a huge fire in one open space storage belongs to the Dutch government. This incident caused significant loss to the Dutch. In the end of December in the same year, in the midst of a party thrown by Chinese community, a firework flew and explodes right on the top of Zeelandia fort. The fort was used to store ammunition for the Dutch soldier. No damage occurred. However, it made the Dutcht wonder whether there was any connection between the fire and the firework and whether there was any hidden-bigger-more dangerous scenario behind these incidents.

The idea of a potential uprising come into light when Reykert Heere, declared that he had seen signs of social unrest. People who take part in the uprising were said to have wearing a sort of mascot in their waist, a belt made of brass. The person who sold the mascot is Pieter Erbervelt.

Following an investigation by the Dutch police officer, and information obtained from one of Erbervelt’s slave, Erbervelt and his group was arrested when they were having a meeting one night at Ervervelt’s house. One of the people arrested was Raden Kartadriya, a Javanese noble. Up to 23 people was arrested. Amongst these, the ones receiving the harshest treatment were Erbervelt, Raden Kartadriya and Layeek. Following a series of torment, the three admit to have planned a rebellion against the government.

Based on this confession, Erbervelt, Raden Kartadriya, Layeek and many others, totaling 19 persons was sentenced to death. The execution method was not less cruel that the torture itself. Their body was pulled by horses, and crashed into pieces. The remain of Erbervelt body was scattered in his home garden and his skull was displayed in from of his home which was located in Jacatraweg (now Pangeran Jayakarta street). Along with this skeleton, there was a wall serve as a monument dated 14 April 1722 with Javanese and Dutcht inscription on it, declaring that no one shall ever build a house or plant a tree on that ground.

The place where the skeleton was displayed is known today as Kampung Pecah Kulit


Who and Why Peter Erbervelt?

Erbervelt was a son of a German father and a Siamese woman. The Erbervelt family was prosperous and powerful. They owned so many lands in Batavia. Young Erbervelt married a woman of a good family.

One day, there was a dispute between Erbervelt and Heemradeen Board (collage van heemradeen) on land owned by Erbervelt. Erbervelt inherited a piece of land in Pondok Bambu with no certificate. In 1708, collage van heemraden seized the land and the following year Governor Van Hoorn declared the land as the property of the Dutch Govemernt. Eversince the incident, Ebervelt dislike on the government started to grow and he started to make trouble with the government.

It is apparent the Ducth hatred for the Erbervelt family was originating from this case, added to the fact the Erbervelt family is not Dutch.


Doubts Reveals

Later on, many doubts were cast whether Erbervelt was really guilty as charged. No positive evidence was presented during the trial and no defence attorney was even provided. Goode in his article said that all of the information surrounding the plan of the suspected uprising was gained from the captured group member and many of these informations were inconsistence with one another. It is very likely that these are nothing but false confession made under torture.

In his confession, Erbervelt mentioned that he had exchanged letters with the son of Surapati and in these letters which was hidden in Erbervelt house, Everbelt mentioned the involvement of prince from Banten and other princess from various regions including many nobles from Kartasura, Cirebon and others. Investigation was held, and no letters was ever found. Due to lack of evidence, the government finally concluded that the rebellion plan was obscure. The government further instructed that no investigation shall be made on those princess and nobles whose name mentioned in Erbervelt confession.

The funny thing is that event though the government had declared the plan obscure, Erbervelt and others arrested remained executed. The execution was authorized by Raad van Indie.

In addition, there are many peculiarities in the case. The case, due to its nature, should be handle by Raad Van Justitie and not collage van heemraden. The properties of the convicted are seized not only in half but a whole. Following the execution Reykert Heere demand a promotion which was then granted by the Dutch government.



Erbervelt Story Today

The Monumen with Erbervelt skeleton on it was no longer displayed. It was demolished when the Japanese take over Batavia from the Dutch during the Pacific war. The street where the monument was once located is now a busy street. After being demolished by the Japanese, the monument was rebuilt, but in 1985, the monument was again demolished, and this time for good. In the location where once the house of Erbervelt family and the skeleton monument stood, there is now a Toyota dealer’s showroom building.

The interest in the history of Pieter Erbervelt revives when a novel written by ES Ito is published. This partly historical novel, Rahasia Meede (The Secret of Meede) told a story of the search of VOC treasure. In this novel it is said that Erbervelt was holding the secret of the treasure and following his death, the secret was passed on Meede, the daughter of Erbervelt who disappeared after his father’s death.

However interesting the story told in the novel, it is still a ‘novel’, no matter how historical the novel tries to be, the story told cannot be considered as the truth. Dr. F. De Haan in his article which was published in Periangan magazine state that in 1723, a year after the brutal event, Erbervelt’s daughter named Aletta was engage to a man of a good family. In another source, the name of Ervervelt daughter was said to be Suzannah and not Meede. Furthermore today’ Church of Sion in Pangeran Jayakarta street was not a former house or Erbervelt.

Nonetheless, the book written by Ito is fun to read, as it dwelled heavily on historical events and such book can increase the interest of Indonesian citizen, children and adults to learn about the history of their own nation.

The monument of Pieter Erbervelt was now kept in museum Fatahillah and the story lives on. As for the truth of what really happen, no one was ever know. The mystery remains unsolved until today.

From various sources
Picture taken from the other sites

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Senin, 24 November 2008

From Tramway to Busway


Transportation issue had become a major concern not only in modern days Jakarta but also in the era of ‘oud Batavia’. The Dutch government during the beginning of the 20th century designed 2 modes of mass land transportation, namely the train and tram to cater for the city’s transportation needs, and, guess what, the route of the intercity “trainway” and “tramway” is quite the same as the route of today’s “busway”, the latest mass land transportation mode designed by ex-Jakarta Governor, Sutiyoso.

Transportation issue had become a major concern not only in modern days Jakarta but also in the era of ‘oud Batavia’.

The Dutch government during the beginning of the 20th century designed 2 modes of mass land transportation, namely the train and tram to cater for the city’s transportation needs, and, guess what, the route of the intercity “trainway” and “tramway” is quite the same as the route of today’s “busway”, the latest mass land transportation mode designed by ex-Jakarta Governor, Sutiyoso.


Bataviasche Ooster Spoor (BOS)

From its office in Pintu Besar road near Javasche Bank (now Bank Indonesia), this company operate steam train whose route start from Kota – Tandjong Priok- Kemayoran - Meester Cornelis. The train was sometimes called as Beos which come from the word BOS, that is, the abbreviation of this company’s name. The area surrounding the locations of this company’s office was still called Beos until today.


Ned Indische Spoorwagen (NIS)

This company operate route from Kota –Pegangsaan – Meester Kornelis – Pasar Minggu - Bogor, Kota – Kampung Duri – Tangerang and Kota – Kampung Duri – Serang.

During the early operation of the train, many people in particularly non European people died when they were carelessly crossing the train track


Steam Tram

It was Martinus Petrus Pels who pioneering the establishment of Batavia Tramway through the formation of his company ‘Tramway Maatschapij’. In December 1867, the license to start the project was granted by the Dutch government and in September 1868, there land a ship carrying materials needed to lay the track of the tram. In 20th April 1869 the first tram begins to travel through the street of Batavia.

The Tram was originally pulled by 4 horses; the capacity of the tram was to carry 38 passengers. The fee was 10 cent per person which is quite cheap at the time. The trams passed every 5 minutes and operate from 5 AM in the morning to 8 PM in the evening.

To cater for the need of mass transportation, more power than could be given by 4 horses was needed. The first steam tram was operated during the 1890’s. The route started from Pintu Besar – West Molenvliet - Harmonie, Tanah Lapang Singa - Kramat - Meester Cornelis. There was also route from Harmonie to Tanah Abang, but later on, the route was taken over by the electric tram, as the steam tram often had not enough power to pull the tram up trough the steeply area of Tanah Abang.


Electric Tram

The operation of steam tram lead to the discovery of a more sophisticated tram, namely the Electric Tram. As the name suggest, this tram was powered by electricity. The route was started from Javasche Bank (now Bank Indonesia, Pintu Besar) – Gunung Sahari – Senen – Kebon Sirih – Tanah Abang. This electric tram can surely carry more passenger compare to steam tram.


What’s Left Today

The traces of tramway track from the Dutch era can no longer be seen today except for small fragment of track which is still lay today in Kota Train Station. We can only dig the memory from old pictures kept in the library. It is a pity that Jakarta Government does not give much interest in the conservation of this transportation artifact.

However, based on the articles written by Prof Dr. Mundardjito (Kota Tua Batavia : Masalah Perlindungan), recently there was an excavation work carried out by Jakarta Tourism Office in front of Fatahillah Museum to dig whatever is left from the once tramway track surrounding the area. The work was successful; the excavation team discovered two wooden tram tracks in its original context. Along with this discovery, the team also found various ceramic fragments from many countries.

This effort is hopefully can be followed by another conservation effort, so that Jakarta citizen can lean that even before the era of busway, there already was tramway. It is a fact that the transportation services during the time were quite impressive. The schedule was mostly on time and the passenger does not have to wait for too long before the trains or trams come to take them to their destination. It is a great hope that someday, Jakarta modern day’s Busway can give a prompt, comfortable transportation service as that enjoyed by the Batavian more than 100 years ago.

From various sources
Photograph : Collection of Leiden University

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Jumat, 21 November 2008

Ancol Art Market


The story begins in 1975 with only a small and modest compound to house Art Market activity for 3 days and later 7 days a month. The temporary compound of the market was located between ‘Gelanggang Samudra’ and ‘Gelanggang Renang’, Ancol. The market was initially open to induce the creativity of the artist and to increase people’s appreciation of art.


The story begins in 1975 with only a small and modest compound to house Art Market activity for 3 days and later 7 days a month. The temporary compound of the market was located between ‘Gelanggang Samudra’ and ‘Gelanggang Renang’, Ancol. The market was initially open to induce the creativity of the artist and to increase people’s appreciation of art.

Having been successful in attracting buyer and artist from all over Indonesia, the market eventually become permanent. In 17 December 1977, Jakarta’s Governor officially re-opened the market. The market consist of 114 kiosk which consist of various art workshop and shop that sold various art and craft products particularly paintings and sculptures. Along with these kiosk, there emerge various food and beverages stalls all around the market.

Along with the growth of the market and also to satisfy demand from customer more kiosk was added. In 22 August 1980, a second part of the market, which is known as Ancol Art Market II was officially open for the public. This part of the market house 97 kiosks which mainly used as art workshop in which the customers are given the chance to witness the creative process of the art.

In 17 February 1984, a new gallery was established named “Galeri Jaya Ancol”. This gallery is a two stories building where the first floor is used to display various science models to attract the interest of young generation to science. The second floor is used for art display where various artist can display their work.

Activity

Art Performance

In the centre of the market area there is an open stage where various artist performs both traditional and modern art, from dancing to music recital. The performers come from both within and outside Indonesia.

During the 80's there was also a Live Jazz Music performance every friday night. However this event was no longer held in this place today.


Exhibition

Various exhibitions and competitions are sometimes held in this place such as Photography competition, Puppet competition, etc.


Art Kiosks and Workshop

The goods sold consist of various art and craft from across Indonesian archipelago from traditional fabric such as batik, songket, etc to pottery and wooden craft.

In the gallery there is also a “Science Park” where display of various science models are placed.


Art Studio

The art studios are referred to many paintings workshops where the painters from different genre from naturalist to abstract create their art and sell it to the visitors. The visitor can see how is the artist in their creative process and the visitor can even sometimes involve it the creative process itself. Many visitors sometimes ask the painters to paint them on the spot. The spot give just the right atmosphere for interaction between the artist and the visitors and between one artist and another.


Ancol Art Market today

The market had seen its days of glory in the 80’s but along with the emergence of many art galleries all around Jakarta, this market which was once had give birth to many great artist such as Nyoman Gunarsa, Abbas Alibasjah, Sudarso dan Amrus Natasya.had now lost its popularity.

Many artists had now preferred to sell their work in various shopping centre, mall, hotels, or other more prestigious or well known gallery

This conditions is worsened by the fact that not many art events or exhibitions held in the market to attract visitors. But still in this commercially non conducive environment, many artists are still trying to exist and maintain their creative spirit.

From various sources
Photograph : Utun L Kartakusumah

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Kamis, 23 Oktober 2008

Betawi - the Origin of the Name

If you are a native Betawi, please don’t get upset on the above title. This article is only a story on the origin of the name “Betawi”. In case you do not know what ‘Betawi’ is, this is another nickname of Jakarta.

If you are a native Betawi, please don’t get upset on the above title. This article is only a story on the origin of the name “Betawi”. In case you do not know what ‘Betawi’ is, this is another nickname of Jakarta.

The story dates back as early as 17th century. It was the time when Old Batavia (now Jakarta) was ruled by VOC, a trading union controlled by Dutch Government and holding monopoly trading rights in Indonesian archipelago. It was also the time when Mataram Kingdom in Central Java was lead by Sultan Agung. How these two connected? Well, this is the story.

It was in 1629 when Sultan Agung ordered his troop to attack Batavia in order to rule out VOC from the city. Mataram attacked Fort Maagdelijn and the attack was quite successful as the troop succeeded to approach the fort. VOC’s soldier was outnumbered and they were surely to loose the battle. The story goes that there were only 15 soldiers left inside the fort without ammunition whilst Mataram’s troop were beginning to climb up the fort using rattan ladder. In that desperate situation, one VOC soldier suddenly ran, to pick up one basket full of human faeces and thrown it all to Mataram’s soldier who was just trying to climb up the fort wall.

The Mataram’s soldier cried out and ran away as those human faeces touched their heads and bodies. They cried “mambet tai…mambet tai...” which means “smell of shit…smell of shit...” This is where the name Betawi (mamBet Tai) comes from. Mataram’s troop cannot stand the smell of the faeces and thus stopped their attack. The battle was eventually won by VOC. Off course there are other factors which cause Mataram’s troop to retreat from the city, such as lack of food and disease. You don’t expect shit alone will do the entire work for VOC, don’t you?

In “Nostalgia di Jakarta” written by Zaenuddin HM and also in nighttime stories told when I was a kid, in the past, human faeces was often used in battle as defense tools against the enemy. Old Batavia was once described as a city smell of shit. Was it? Well, not really, you can still smell shit nowadays in several slump and squatter areas scattered through out Jakarta.
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History of Jakarta


The history of Jakarta dates back to at least the 5th Century with the development of a small port of Hindu Pajajaran Kingdom at the mount of Ciliwung River. The port was known as “Sunda Kelapa”. This port was straightly connected to the centre of Pajajaran Kingdom in Batu Tulis Bogor through the Ciliwung river. Sunda Kelapa had played very important role in international trading during that time.

5th to 14th Century

The history of Jakarta dates back to at least the 5th Century with the development of a small port of Hindu Pajajaran Kingdom at the mount of Ciliwung River. The port was known as “Sunda Kelapa”. This port was straightly connected to the centre of Pajajaran Kingdom in Batu Tulis Bogor through the Ciliwung river. Sunda Kelapa had played very important role in international trading during that time.

15th to 16th Century

Searching for the fabled "Spice Island", the Portuguese were the first Europeans to arrive in Sunda Kelapa fort.

In an ancient map found in Florence, Italy dated 1467; the name of Sunda Kelapa port had already been stated. The map was quite popular throughout Europe, even before the discovery of America. Many Portuguese merchant had landed in this port before continuing their journey to the eastern part of Indonesian archipelago.

Tome Pires, a Portuguese merchant who visited Sunda Kelapa in 1522 recorded that many ships from Palembang (a city in Sumatera Island), Malaka, Tanjungpura, Makassar and also India, Cung Kuo (China) and Ryuku (Japan) were seen in this port.

The Portuguese had also been the first to establish fortress in Batavia in the early 16th century. The Portuguese kingdom assigned Governor d’Albuquerque who was the administrator of Malaka to visit Sunda Kelapa. He managed to make friend with Pajajaran kingdom and the friendship goes so far as the king allowed d’Alburqueque to established fortress in Sunda Kelapa. However, before the fortress was completed, Demak, a new emerging Islamic Sultanate in Central Java sent its troops lead by Prince Fatahillah who was also known as Faletehan to destroy the half completed fortress and to keep the Portuguese away from Sunda Kelapa. The attack was successful. The Portuguese navy fleet was destroyed. Following this success, Fatahillah changed the name of Sunda Kelapa to Jayakarta which means ‘the City of Victory’ commemorating the defeat of the Pajajaran Kingdom and its European allies. The event took place on 22 June 1527 which was later officially recognized as the birth of the city of Jakarta.

Fatahillah then assigned Tubagus Angke, one of his family member to rule Jayakarta, whereas he returned to Demak and them came to live in Cirebon for the rest of his life. Tubagus Angke give his power tto rule to his son Prince Jayakarta.

16th t0 20thCentury

During the era of Prince Jayakarta, the popularity of Jayakarta port was declined. Banten port was on the other hand increasingly visited by many merchant from all around the world. This attracted the Dutch to come to Banten. Banten people did not like the Dutch and force them to leave the port. The Dutch then seek refuge to Jayakarta port. Prince Jayakarta granted permission to the Dutch and also the British to land on the port.

The Dutch was granted a land near the mouth of River Ciliwung and started to build an office which was later to house the official Dutch trading union, The Dutch East Indian Company (VOC). The office was later changed into a fortress called by the Dutch as the fort van Jacatra in 1618. This action annoyed Prince Jayakarta and also the British and therefore this fort was attacked later the same year.

The Dutch was severely beaten. Its leader Jan Pieterzoon Coen left for Moluccas to seek aid from other Dutch fleet stationed there. On 30th of May 1619, Coen was back to Jayakarta, his troop attacked and destroyed the kingdom of Jayakarta. The Dutch also destroyed and burnt houses. From the scraps left out of this ruin, Coen re-built Jayakarta.

On 4th of March 1621, the name Jayakarta was changed to Batavia to honor the Batavir clan which was believed to be the ancestor of Dutch people. For more than 300 hundreds years afterward the Dutch ruled Jayakarta and the VOC established the Kingdom of Jakarta.


20th Century to date

During the World War II, Japan invade many Asian countries, including Indonesia. Japan invaded Batavia on 1942 and rule the country until 1945. Under the Japanese authority, the name of Batavia was changed to Jakarta.

In 1945 Japan lose the war and on August 17, 1945, Indonesia's first President Soekarno proclaimed Indonesia's independence and Jakarta become the accepted nation's capital. The capital was once moved to Jogjakarta due to security reasons, but later it was moved back to Jakarta.

In 1947 the Dutch tried to regain its power and attacked Jakarta. The attack was successful and the name of Jakarta was changed back to Batavia. For the following 2 years the Dutch expand the area of Jakarta to the South.

In 1949, the Dutch finally admit the Independence of Indonesia and left Jakarta. Jakarta as the nation’s capital had undergone many changes to this date. The city had in fact grown into a metropolis.

Source : Jakarta Java Kini, Hei Ini Jakarta Bang
Photograph : Batavia 1897 Wikimedia

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